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alpine mtn wrks blog

The AMGA Ski Guide Exam: Rogers Pass, British Columbia

      “The AMGA Ski Mountaineering Guide Exam is not for the weak of heart” exam director Amos Whiting exclaimed to our group of tired ski guides on the final day of our week long examination.  Everyone in our team was feeling the stress of the week, both physically and mentally.   The exam …
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Climbing Patagonia: exploring El Chalten

  Argentina’s rugged landscape and romantic allure has captivated me since I was a little kid.  It seemed like an incredibly free place – wide open country like America’s wild west.  Climbing Patagonia was a greater fantasy still- a far off land at the end of the earth where jagged granite spires pierced through brilliant …
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Lobuche Peak: climbing to 6,000 meters in the Himalaya

Lobuche Peak: climbing to 6,000 meters in the Himalaya   After our trek to Everest Base Camp, our bodies were ready for the real thing.  Lobuche Peak, a 6,000 meter peak not too far off was our objective.  We had first seen the western side of the peak from Cho La pass and had gottten views of …
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Everest Base Camp Trek: a trip to the bottom of the top

Everest Base Camp Trek   The Himalaya is an intimidating mountain range.  Steep, jagged rock, huge glaciers, and extreme altitudes are thrust in your face as soon as you enter the Nepal.  I had been trying to figure out the perfect way to experience this range for a long time but I hadn’t lined up any …
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Mountain Hardwear Tangent 2 Tent Review

  The Mountain Hardwear Tangent 2 Tent is billed as a lightweight, 4 season tent for alpine climbing.  Double wall construction and lightweight materials create a tent that Hardwear calls “Expedition strength in three-season weight.”  It is a great concept for climbers looking for a light tent that can deal with wet, stormy alpine environments. Unfortunately, the Tangent …
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Mount Olympus: an Eclectic Climb

  Mount Olympus is an eclectic climb that winds through a whirlwind of terrain.  It begins in the lush Hoh Rainforest, ends up on a crazy dry glacier, winds up a slabby rock buttress and back onto the Blue Glacier before ending in a steep rocky summit pyramid.  It’s not your typical climb.  It  starts and ends on …
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How Routes Are Made: Mount Rainier’s Disappointment Cleaver

  Mount Rainier’s Disappointment Cleaver is an anomaly in mountaineering.  Many climbers don’t realize this, but the “DC” is not USDA certified organic.  The route does not naturally exist.  It is carved into the mountain by the guides that work on the route on a daily basis.  Guides from RMI Expeditions, International Mountain Guides and Alpine …
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Single Push Climbing on Baker’s Coleman-Deming

  Climbing a mountain in a single push has strong pros and cons. It can be very rewarding to be able to pick off a peak in a number of hours instead of a number of days.  The flip side is that it is harder for most people and requires much better movement skills on the …
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Sahale Mountain: August Trip Report

Sahale Mountain is the perfect place to start your alpine climbing career.  The climb has it all: a thick, forested approach to the Boston Basin Camp on a tough climber’s trail,  low angle rock slab climbing, a heavily crevassed glacier and even a pitch or two of steep rock climbing.  While this may sound daunting, …
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What’s up with the Kautz Route on Mount Rainier? Conditions and Trip Report

The Kautz isn’t your standard mountaineering route.  Especially on a low snow year like this.  Early season the Kautz can be a walk up with snow covering the steepest part of the route.  Sooner or later, this snow melts out and reveals the toughest part of the climb, the Ice Chute.  When the chute is fully melted out,  multiple …
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